Sunday, 26 May 2013

HSF Challenge 7 - Accessorize: Capote or Casque? A helmet style bonnet and a combat sized réticule

Originally I planned this for the HSF Challenge #7: Accessorize - due April 8. 
Accessories add polish to your outfits, helping to create the perfect historical look. This week is all about bringing an outfit together. Trim a bonnet, paint a fan, crochet an evening bag, sew a shawl, or dye and decorate a pair of shoes to create the perfect period accessory for yourself.

But I needed the new things already for February, when I travelled to Keetje Hodshon's ball in Haarlem. The bag and the hat are made from blue cotton velvet, both lined with some silk left-overs (inside of the bag there's some piecing too).

a fan from the late 1790's with ladies copied from fashionplates - it gives you a nice look through the different styles all up and about at the same period.
Picture posted on Facebook by D. Moldoveanu

The Challenge No 7: Accessorize

Fabric: Cotton Velvet, Silk scraps
Pattern: my own for both hat and réticule
Year: 1797 to 1800. It's a wild and early style, perfect with the crazy fashion during the Consulat.
Notions: Black silk thread, ribbon (stash), feathers, silk yarn for tassels and cords.
How historically accurate is it? Fairly accurate, I'd say, given the fact that the velvet is modern and the cardboard of the brim is modern too and does not contain any textile fiber. Handsewn with stitches known and used in the period.
Hours to complete: Can't really say. All handsewn in a lazy weekend...
First worn: Keetje Hodshon's ball, February 23, 2013 (or 1813...)
Total cost: I found the velvet on sale, and the silk scraps came from my scrap. Ca. 7 to 10 Euro.

I wanted something cute, but not sugary as I am not a huge fan of bonnets, I prefer the more daring "Diva-Style" of the Consulat. Dramatic veils, trailing dresses, weird hats. And I wanted it to be versatile more or less practical. 

Inspiration for the casque (helmet)

What made me construct the casque the way I did
And now we come to the various chapeau de velours:
Not just black hat with black feathers, but more daring colour contrast works out as well. I know that it's a very nice contrast, but I usually feel better if I have something contemporary to back up my feelings.

Another one with lopsided feathers and double ribbons

This hat is simply a stunner. And you can see where the ribbons of my hat had their inspiration from

I simply loved the big réticule, and only realised later what a nice hat she's wearing.

And the result. The pictures with all black feathers are from the first wear, in Haarlem, while those with the mixed feathers were taken at Château de Wildegg in Switzerland, during our Sunday stroll in April.
In front of the Teylers Museum. I think it's visible that I didn't sleep much on the train. The gigantesque réticule is the other half of the challenge. In the evening my dance shoes plus an additional silk shawl found room in there too.
Picture by by A. Berkestam Drysén 

The front door, when the wind caught my pelisse and made me feel as I would fly away that very moment.
 Picture by C. Hanley. 

The Teylers Museum hosted a special exhibition of Redoutés Flowers, and we used the opportunity to snap pictures in front of "La Petite Malmaison". The belt usually wouldn't sit so low, but with a thick wool dress and fichu underneath (it was february after all), it simply started to wander down :-(
Picture by L. Lynch. 

As I received several comments that the pure black hat gives me a unhealthy complexion (despite the hat being dark blue, and not black), I added some white feathers this time for the Spring promenade

With my friend Suzanne. Twice cotton velvet used for hats, but two different results.
Picture by E. Caramanna

Walking down the hill with J. and F.  The dress (Nicknamed Laure) would be the Flora and Fauna entry, with the exception that the embroidery doesn't show on the pictures, and I couldn't enter it. Again the giant réticule what housed many many things that day. (though not the cups and saucers, those travelled in a wee basket)
Picture by E. Caramanna

With my friend Kitty. She's wearing an 1800 interpretation of her national costume.
Picture by E. Caramanna

and a rather saucy look - captured by afore mentioned Kitty (A. Schläfli). 
The hat is much fun to wear, and certainly hasn't seen the last of the styling options. 

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